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Basil oil is one of those little things that makes a dish extra special.

Blanch a big handful of basil for about a minute, plunge it into iced water to keep it bright green, then drain and pat dry. Blitz with a third of a cup of olive oil and let it drip through a fine sieve (or muslin if you have it). I don’t mind the odd little fleck, because that’s what us mere mortals do. It keeps for a week and works with chives, parsley and tarragon too.

Then I drizzle it over a quick broccoli soup. Shave the stalk thinly and soften it with onion in butter before adding the florets and stock. It’s also lovely on a classic tricolore salad.