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Café de Paris butter is a classic compound butter that’s pure magic melting over a hot steak.

Into 250g softened butter mix a pinch each of oregano, curry powder, cayenne and paprika with ½ tsp black pepper. Add lemon juice, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, chopped capers, Dijon, garlic mashed with salt, a little Madeira (or Marsala) and orange zest if you have it. Finish with chopped parsley, chives and thyme.

Roll it into a log in parchment and chill. It keeps for a week in the fridge. Freeze it in sections for up to 6 months, so you only defrost what you need. Then cut big fat slices to melt over your steak. It smells incredible.