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This sauce is an absolute showstopper with steak.

If you’ve roasted some bones, use the lovely bits stuck to the pan (otherwise start with a little vegetable oil). Soften finely chopped shallots with 1 tsp each of green and black peppercorns and half a teaspoon of dried thyme. Turn up the heat and add 50ml whisky. Set fire to it if you’re brave! Add 100ml stock and scrape up all those stuck-on bits, then reduce by two-thirds.

Gradually stir in 200ml cream, then a teaspoon of white miso, which is gentler than red. Taste and add more if you like. It can be made ahead and reheated. Just before serving, add a tiny squeeze of lemon to brighten it up.