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This is why I shouldn’t go near a fish counter. I went in for baby leeks and came home with a huge Greek sea bass! So I decided to try something I’d never done before: butterflying it.

With the fish gutted and scaled, I ran the knife along either side of the rib cage, working slowly until I was halfway through. Then I took out the backbone, which is much easier with scissors, and added a few slits in the skin. It’s not easy, and it’s slippery, but I don’t think I did too badly for a first go. The point is to push yourself and try something new.