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This is a really cheffy way to prepare salmon for a dinner party. One side of salmon serves six as a main.

Skin the salmon, trim off the dark fat and double-check for pin bones. Cut it in half, then lay one piece on top of the other, fat end on thin end, so you get an even thickness. Roll it very tightly in a long piece of cling film into a sausage shape, pinching and twisting the ends, then wrap it again lengthways to seal. (I avoid cling film normally, but there’s no alternative here.)

Slice it into medallions and steam them in a bamboo basket over a wok. They look stunning on the plate.